Archive for December 8th, 2006

Anne Frank - through the eyes of her friend

I’ve written separately about the Berlin museums, and also about the shop selling products relating to German traffic light men.  In the same complex as the shop, there’s also a museum focused on Anne Frank.

I read Anne’s diary while doing A-Level German, and knew about her story in general.  I also knew of the museum in Holland, based in the house where she and her family were in hiding.

What I didn’t know was that Anne was born in Berlin.  Even more interestingly, the museum in Berlin told her story from the point of view of her friend Hannah, who she met on their first day at a Montessori kindergarten.  Seeing materials from the school, photographs of them playing together, all served to remind me that Anne’s story began before the family went into hiding.

Probably the most affecting part was seeing video footage of Hannah, describing what it was like to be friends with Anne.  We tend to think of the girl who wanted to be a writer; we also know that her diaries were all she was able to put across to the world.  Hannah also describes the naughty Anne, the one who stood up to the boys at school; less of the ‘quiet saint’ we may have in our minds.

For me, the most shocking part was where Hannah discovered, after being moved to a concentration camp, that Anne was there too.  Despite the danger of being caught, the two friends managed to ‘meet’, whispering through a partition of straw and barbed wire.  At that point, Anne’s mother and sister had died, and she thought her father was also dead.  Although Hannah encouraged her to keep going, Anne seemed to have lost hope, and was dead within a month.

Hannah reflected on the situation - Anne and her story became famous world wide, but she didn’t live to see it.  Hannah’s experience of occupation was perhaps just as typical as Anne’s, or others at that time - and somehow she lived. 

Perhaps she felt not unlike Anne’s father, who did in fact survive, and who in some ways came to know Anne more through finding and publishing her diaries.  You can be tremendously proud of and affected by someone who writes openly about such difficulties.  But you’d far rather you had them with you, and not just their words on a page.

A fitting end to the exhibition was a separate, smaller section, based on a competition where children were encouraged to write about relatives who had been affected by war.

Some wrote about their own situations - one fifteen year old who survived the Yugoslav conflict noted that he had experienced war for thirteen of those fifteen years.  Some wrote about experiences their grandparents had that are now less well remembered than that of Anne Frank - one grandparent survived the siege of Leningrad, another witnessed the annexation of Kaliningrad, to the north of Poland.

The stories were powerful - and made more so by the children’s own efforts in retelling them in their own words, and illustrating them, or including photographs where those were available.

A little more indication if I needed it of Berlin’s complex history, and of Germany’s attempts to engage with these difficult topics today.

Add comment December 8th, 2006

Good use of an hour

When I was in Berlin in mid-September, on a work trip, the office was close to the Museumsinsel, a series of museums on an island in the river that runs through Berlin.

I bought a 3-day pass, and although the museums shut at 6 most nights, I was able to spend a bit of time in them at the end of the day.

The main attraction is the Pergamon Museum.  This is one I went to on my initial visit to Berlin, aged 18 and on a ‘culture vulture’ trip with my German penfriend.  I’d just finished A-Level Latin, and the highlight for me then was the huge Roman frieze, part original, part reconstruction. 

It’s the first thing you see when you go in, and it gives you some sense of what temples and other official buildings must have been like.  The stairs up to the top are very steep, but you can also see the frieze from lower down. I probably spent a whole hour in that room the first time.

A few years later, when I was working in Poland, Dan came out to see me, and spent some time in Berlin on the way back.  He too went to Pergamon, and loved it.

I think we first went there together at Easter 2002.  There’s also art covering other civilisations, including a reconstruction of the Ishtar gate (Babelonian) and lots of Islamic art.  One part has a reconstructed room from the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain.

I knew this time I would only have time for the hightlights, so: back to the frieze, to the Ishtar Gate, and a quick sweep round the Islamic section.  This time, there was a photo exhibition of Turkmenistan, up the stairs to the Islamic section, which was also great: beautiful colours in people’s costumes and homes.

My next day, I went to the Altes Museum, one of the museums I hadn’t visited before.  Its treasures are its ‘Greek boy’, a bronze statue of a boy in prayer, and a mask of Nefertiti.  So, with the minutes ticking past, I managed to see both.  The mask was really amazing, but probably more so for having had a look at other sculptures in the Egyptian section first.  Some of the most unusual ones were of families - the children are shown in minature on the lap of either parent.

The museums are due for a big face-lift and restoration is underway on the five different buildings.  To see more, have a look at the websites for each above, or here for a picture of Nefertiti herself. 

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